Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio bianco 2007.
J'ai eu la chance de déguster un Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio 2001 rouge il y a quelques semaines. Déjà neuf ans d'âge pour un vin qui est recommandé de boire en jeunesse. Le vin avait si bien vieilli qu'il me fallait en découvrir plus sur cette appellation divine. Divine, car le Vésuve est l'endroit ou le Seigneur pleura la chute de Lucifer, d’où Lacryma Christi. Ses larmes ont durcies en d'innombrables coulées de lave et offrent un sol volcanique propice à la culture de la vigne.
En rouge, l'encépagement est le Piedirosso et l’Aglianico. En blanc, le Coda di Volpe. Autant dire, des cépages que l'on ne retrouve pas dans d’autres régions italiennes (sauf l'Aglianico) et encore moins ailleurs sur la planète. Dans ma lecture de Nicolas Belfrage (From Brunello to Zibbibo.) seul le chapitre sur les vins de Campanie mentionnait le Piedirosso et le Coda di Volpe.
La mention Lacryma Christi est comme la mention Superiore, i.e. le vin suivi, ou précédé, de cette mention doit contenir 0,5% alc/vol de plus que le "normale". Dans ce cas-ci, les vins sont sous la DOC Vesuvio et les vins contenant 0,5% alc/vol de plus se vendront en tant que Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, toujours sous la DOC Vesuvio.
Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio bianco 2007
Visuel: jaune paille, peu de jambes qui descendent rapidement
Olfactif: Ce n'est pas un vin qui en met plein la figure. Très subtil, il faut le sentir a plusieurs reprise sur une période prolongée. Servi trop froid, seul le citron ressort du verre. En se réchauffant, puis a température idéale, de la pêche, minéralité, une touche de pétrole et de la noisette. Un petit côté Riesling du Rheingau 2003 et Chardonnay légèrement boise.
En bouche: acidité entre fraiche et vive, assez de corps pour soutenir un risotto aux fruits de mer, une légère amertume en finale qui est entre moyenne et longue.
Ce fut avec grande tristesse lorsque j'ai terminé ma seule et unique demie-bouteille de Lacryma Christi blanc. Il m'en reste trois en rouge (2008) que je boirai à différents stade de maturité.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Christmas Dinner
Christmas Eve was the night of my first sommelier "contract". No real contract, as I was only having dinner at my aunt's with my dad and cousins. My aunt gave me a menu two weeks ahead and I had to choose the wines. You'll only find wine and food pairing in this article, as my aunt's glasses are the worse for technical tasting and I can take a break from class.
The menu was as follws:
Endives, green apple and walnut salad with walnut oil
Duck breasts with blueberry demie-glace, Anna potatoes
Blueberry creme brulee, although it was originally a cranberry creme brulee.
Since it is only family, I looked for wines under 20$ per bottle. For the endives salad, I remembered tasting an Orvieto in class and it was almost a consensus that it would pair well with endives, and it did. No notes on this wine. Served: Ruffino Orvieto Classico 2008, 11.95$ at the LCBO
Second course, the duck breast. I never had duck prior to that evening, making it the hardest course to pair with wine. I know my aunt, and when she does a fruit sauce, she always puts a lot more fruit than what is asked for in the recipe. A "fruit bomb" Merlot from California would at least go with the sauce. Since Californian wines have a tendency to be extracted to have the maximum of colour, flavour and alcohol, and give to its wine a strong back-bone, why not try a Californian Merlot. Best wine-food match of the evening.
Served: Ghost Pines Winemaker's Blend Merlot 2006, 19.95$ at the LCBO. Decanted 1.5 hours prior to eating.
On this wine, I did notice a strong aroma of something between burnt toast and tar, almost as strong as in Nebbiolo based wines.
For dessert, a blueberry creme brulee with demerara sugar. I was expecting more from my wine, a 2007 First Frost Vidal from Huff Estates. It was not as sweet as I expected, and the creme brulee sweeter than hoped. On its own, it was a good wine. With hte creme brulee, it might as well have been a dry wine. I would rather pair this wine with a cheese or even honey roasted almonds.
Wine served: Huff Estates First Frost Vidal 2007, 19.95 at the LCBO.
My cousin and her boyfriend were joking and saying everything should have been paired with Labatt 50. They never stopped making jokes about the most glorious profession of sommelier.
The menu was as follws:
Endives, green apple and walnut salad with walnut oil
Duck breasts with blueberry demie-glace, Anna potatoes
Blueberry creme brulee, although it was originally a cranberry creme brulee.
Since it is only family, I looked for wines under 20$ per bottle. For the endives salad, I remembered tasting an Orvieto in class and it was almost a consensus that it would pair well with endives, and it did. No notes on this wine. Served: Ruffino Orvieto Classico 2008, 11.95$ at the LCBO
Second course, the duck breast. I never had duck prior to that evening, making it the hardest course to pair with wine. I know my aunt, and when she does a fruit sauce, she always puts a lot more fruit than what is asked for in the recipe. A "fruit bomb" Merlot from California would at least go with the sauce. Since Californian wines have a tendency to be extracted to have the maximum of colour, flavour and alcohol, and give to its wine a strong back-bone, why not try a Californian Merlot. Best wine-food match of the evening.
Served: Ghost Pines Winemaker's Blend Merlot 2006, 19.95$ at the LCBO. Decanted 1.5 hours prior to eating.
On this wine, I did notice a strong aroma of something between burnt toast and tar, almost as strong as in Nebbiolo based wines.
For dessert, a blueberry creme brulee with demerara sugar. I was expecting more from my wine, a 2007 First Frost Vidal from Huff Estates. It was not as sweet as I expected, and the creme brulee sweeter than hoped. On its own, it was a good wine. With hte creme brulee, it might as well have been a dry wine. I would rather pair this wine with a cheese or even honey roasted almonds.
Wine served: Huff Estates First Frost Vidal 2007, 19.95 at the LCBO.
My cousin and her boyfriend were joking and saying everything should have been paired with Labatt 50. They never stopped making jokes about the most glorious profession of sommelier.
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